In the final installment of our two-part report on
photographing wildflowers, Robert Keeley explains the importance of composition
and lighting.
Spring and the first weeks of summer are an ideal time to shoot images of wildflowers. But there are several elements you need to consider to be successful when photographing these small subjects. In part one of this primer we looked at what you need to think about before heading into the field, and also some of the equipment you can use to get strong, colourful images of native flora. We considered the importance of careful preparation (checking the weather, consulting with local experts for the district you are heading into), selecting the best equipment (quality macro lenses or a set of close-up lenses as a cheaper alternative are good choices) and also the necessity of having a sound knowledge of just what you can achieve with whatever camera and lenses you have available.
But there are a few other points worth considering, so let’s look at these.
04 Creative Composition
Once you’re in a
good location, you need to consider how to make your most creative image.
Composition plays a key role in adding impact to your shot. Most wildflowers
grow in patches, but they’re often not tightly packed together. To get the best
impact you will often need to focus on individual plants.
Depth of field is
likely to be shallow due to the close focusing required, so use this element
creatively to blur both the foreground and background of your image. Get low,
and try shooting from the same height as the flowers. This will allow you to
include some of the background environment, albeit in soft focus.
Another good
option is to shoot from directly above the flower. Using a 16-35mm wide-angle lens I was
able to focus on one or two individual flowers, yet still include other blooms
in soft focus, creating interesting patterns. Finally, try shooting on an
angle, at around 45 degrees to the plant. You can angle straight-stemmed plants
across your frame to create a more dynamic composition.
05 Controlling Light
The best natural light for shooting wildflowers is not
sunny daylight, because it creates too many dark shadows. These can prove to be
highly distracting. Instead, look for lightly overcast days, with an even
spread of light which won’t cast severe shadows, but will still offer enough
light to present saturated colours.
Of course, even if you take into account weather reports
(as you should), you simply won’t get perfect weather each time you head
outdoors, so consider some artificial forms of light, and light controlling
devices. Flash is the most obvious artificial light source. Generally a full
burst of flash will be counter-productive, as it’s likely to overexpose your
delicate subjects. But most modern SLRs will allow you to decrease your
dedicated flash unit’s output in 1/3 increments. Experiment in decreasing your
flash output steadily until you find a setting which adds some punch to your shot,
without overwhelming it.
You can also try other portable lighting effects like
torches, or controlling devices like white, silver or gold reflector panels, or
even cloth. Anything which will reflect light can have an impact on your image.
An added advantage of some of these is that they can minimise the impact of
light breezes on your subject.
06 Other Useful Items
It’s worth considering a few other useful items which can
help if you become really serious about photographing wildflowers. A ground
sheet can be very handy if you want to get down to ground level (or even an
insulation mat used in camping), but be sure you don’t lie on other
wildflowers! Also, depending on the weather (it might be very bright with a lot
of glare on hot days, or drizzle on gloomy days) a large, strong, and white
umbrella can diffuse light or keep light rain off your subject. Admittedly it
might be a pain to carry an umbrella along with your tripod, but its value in
the right circumstances can outweigh this negative. Finally, make sure you wear
a broad-brimmed hat, get some sunscreen, and take something to drink and some
snack food. You’ll be surprised how far you might wander once you get serious
about making images of our native flora.
For more information on shooting wildflowers see
Australian Photography’s November issue.
While a macro lens is great for details, careful use of a wide-angle or even a telephoto lens can also yield effective results. The key is to understand the limitations of your kit. EOS 1D Mk IV, 16-35mm lens @ 29mm, 1/100s @ f/4.5, ISO 100, -1/3EV, cropped.
A wideangle lens allows you to include the surrounding environment which adds context to the photo. EOS 1D Mk IV, 16-35mm lens @ 25mm, 1/200s @ f/7.1, ISO 200, -1/3EV, sharpening.
Shallow depth of field used creatively can blur out distractions behind the key
flowers. EOS 1D Mk IV, 16-35mm lens @ 35mm, 1/50s @ f/5, ISO 100,
-2/3EV, cropped and sharpening.
By angling the stem of this flower I added some dynamism to a static subject.
When close focusing a shallow depth of field can be used. EOS 1D Mk IV,
16-35mm lens @ 35mm, 1/80s @ f/6.3, ISO 100, -1/3EV.